Pompeii and Herculaneum

Day 6: Tues 4th - Met 4 other aussies staying in the same room as us, and decided to make a big group and go to see Herculaneum and Pompeii together (note: I always thought Pompeii was spelt with two 'i's but in Italy they only use one. Sneaking suspicion they are trying to make the English look stupid.) We bought day passes for the Circumvesuviana (that stupid above-ground train is the only way to get around Sorrento) for 6 Euros and 30 cents--highway robbery--and were on our way. After declining the whole roast pig for 4.50 we saw along the way, we bought tickets at Herculaneum to 5 sites as it was cheaper if we were also going to Pompeii. 20 Euros later (Southern Italy is not cheap!), we were inside the ruins. We tried to buy audioguides but they were sold out (have you ever heard of that? What a scam!) so we invented our own explanations for things--see that? That's a bathtub..in the middle of the square...That looks like a stove, this was definitely a bakery then...etc.

Similiar to Pompeii, Herculaneum was also destroyed by Mt. Vesuvius' eruption in 79 AD. But unlike Pompeii, this town was covered with layers of ash and gas very quickly, so the preservation here is actually better. We saw some buildings that still had multiple stories. It was quite incredible--these buildings survived a volcanic eruption, burial, excavation, and two thousand years of deterioration, and still look like they do. (Maybe Hollywood needs to take some aging tips from ancient cities...)
After we were satisfied with our time at Herculaneum, we headed back to Pompeii. We were more successful with our audioguide search (and even got a deal) and headed inside. The guide was a waste of money, though; it played this cheesy minstrel music before every bit of info--I seriously doubt Pompeiians were running around with lutes in 79 AD. I think they had more important things to worry about. Like getting buried by a volcano.
The ruins at Pompeii were impressive, simply because it's so big. The books are right; it's not as well-preserved as Herculaneum, but the scope is incredible. You got to walk an ancient city and imagine what their society would have been like to live in.

We did the two hour walk-through and got really lost. Stops included a rich person's house, a bakery (for sure this time), a couple temples, and a courthouse. Our favourite part was the Lupenare, or the whore house (betcha didn't see that one coming, did ya? I thought it was a wolf sanctuary...).

It was getting dark so we scooted over to the amphitheatre before it got too late. We had a ton of fun because it was deserted--the five of us were the only ones there, give or take a few curious tourists poking their heads in. I got to dance on one of the oldest stages in the world!
We wanted to take some group photos of us on stage, but because there was no one around, it was posing a bit of a challenge. In the end, we decided that the four of us would get ready at the bottom of the theatre. Dave would set the self-timer and then book it down the stairs to jump in the picture at the last second. It took a couple tries (and a lot of cardio--those stairs are steep!) but we got the photo.
Band photo inside the ruins of Pompeii...debut album coming soon
Then we decided to take one of us all jumping in the air, from the other side, so the steps would be in the background. This proved to be quite a challenge. After an hour of failed attempts and scraped knees, wipeouts, and lack of coordination, we almost gave up, but then somehow it worked and we got the picture. The struggle was hilarious and now we have the photos to remember it!
This was so worth the blood sweat and tears!
We headed back to the hostel for some more amazing food and a movie--they project onto one of the walls of the hostel in the courtyard, so we watched RED while we were eating. I headed upstairs to pack after that, and managed to condense three bags into two (I have a Ryanair flight tomorrow, so I need to be thrifty). It took a bit of a yard sale--I left four books, a towel, and various other toiletries behind--but I made it. (The other girls in my room were quite happy to take what I was giving away)

It was a fantastic last day in Italy--I got to know some great people, saw some fascinating things, and am almost ready to close the book on this trip!

Group photo inside Pompeii, Mt. Vesuvius in the background. Great day guys!

Not a Morning Person

This morning, we tried to get up early to go to the Vatican museums before our 1:45 train to Naples. However, neither Nez nor I are morning people, as we discovered. After our lovely (and now regular) wakeup from the cleaning lady, we had breakky then went to the station to leave our bags at the luggage place. After a half-hour trek through the depths of the station, we find the longest line ever--apparently it's no longer DIY luggage lockers. Since we were short on time, we were NOT about to wait in that line. We schlepped back to the hostel, and instead, left our bags there. At this point, we only had about an hour and a half, and the museums were not going to be visited. We decided to cut our losses and just relax before our train, so we shopped for a bit, and I fell in love with two Italian men: their names were Dolce and Gabbana.

We picked up our bags, and were a bit late leaving for the station. We literally had to sprint to our train, but we made it. Barely. The conductor blew the whistle as we stepped onto the train--now that's backpacking talent. Just in time!

After we got to Naples, we had to take an hour-long "Circumvesuviana" to get to Sorrento. I figured it was a regional train--slower, but no problem. We got to the station and discovered the 1 hr "regional train" from there to Sorrento is actually an above-ground subway. That my Eurail pass is not valid for. So I had to buy a 4 Euro ticket. (I really think my pass was less and less of a good deal, the more I use it and get told it's either not valid or I have to pay extra for the reservation).

We get on the train (if you can call it that) and are crammed like sardines, with no ventilation. We discover after boarding that we've boarded the wrong train. Of course.

After correcting our mistake and enduring a miserable hour and a half journey down the coast, Nez and I arrived in San Agnello, a small town just outside of Sorrento. The hostel directions sucked so we walked around a bit. We got a great photo of this tiny truck before getting busted by the owner, who turned out to be very proud instead, and offered to take a photo of us on the back--as long as we took one of him after. Got some great gelato then made it to the hostel, which is amazing. Makes the one in Rome look like a halfway house. Met some great people in our room (Aussies, of course) and all had dinner together--did I mention the hostel makes incredible food? A bunch of us are gonna see Pompeii tomorrow. I can't wait!

Church on Sunday

Apparently I'm a bad Catholic. I didn't realize that going to the Vatican on a Sunday means the museums are all closed (Sabbath). Lucky for me, going on a Sunday means you will get blessed by the Pope instead. Repentance! Nez and I stood in St. Peter's square and watched as a tapestry was hung out of a random window in the Vatican. Then, at noon, Jesus appeared! Just kidding. But close! Pope Benedict gave his little wave to the crowd, then said a bunch of stuff in latin that no one understood but pretended to anyways. Lastly, he did a bunch of shout-outs in all the languages he could think of, and the crowd reacted accordingly. Most importantly, we were blessed by the Pope!
Just me and the Pope
After the speech, we went into St. Peter's, which is really impressive inside. I completely understand why it's the headquarters here. It is a little strange, however, having to cover up my legs and shoulders. I expect that when I go to mosques or temples, but in a church? They're just shorts!
Me and my improvised cover-up inside St. Peter's Basilica
Later, Nez and I went for a nice dinner of gnocchi and risotto (and place mats with Whitney Houston on them? Random),

then headed to the Coliseum to take some photos at night. Took about 3 good ones and 300 blurry ones--quite the learning curve with low lighting. Did a handstand and cut my foot on broken glass--not the smartest thing I've done this trip.

I rallied, however, and walked to the Trevi Fountain. There were only about 15 other people there, so it was comparatively empty to daytime (when the tourist hordes are out in full force). Almost fell in while taking photos. Fun fact: about 3000 Euros are thrown into that fountain EVERY DAY. Maybe if Italy started collecting it, they would improve their financial situation a little...I contributed to it, but in true backpacker style, I threw in one cent. A Euro is way over my price ceiling, let's be real here! <brMy near-miss with the water, caught on film So I didn't get to see Sistine Chapel. I know, I know--I went to Rome and didn't see the Sistine Chapel!--But it's really fine: I'm so oversaturated with historical sights in Rome that they're losing a bit of their lustre. I'd rather go back when I have a fresh mind--and now I have a reason to return to Rome!

Me and Nez in front of the Coliseum

Ixnay on the Gladiators

Day 3: Saturday Oct 1 This morning I booked a flight to London for Oct 5th, then walked to the Coliseum to use the 2nd day of the ticket the guys bought. Discovered the ticket is valid for 2 days,but not at the same sites more than once. Embarrassing moment! I did the walk of shame past alllll the people lining up who actually had tickets, back out the way I came. Guess I won't be seeing the Coliseum after all!

Back at the hostel I met Nez, another Aussie solo traveler staying in my room. We got along great and had a nice dinner together before an early night. FYI, Rome is HOT right now. All that walking is exhausting!

A little Roman History

In front of the Forum (or what's left of it)
Day 2: Fri Sept 30.

Hostel kicks us out at 10 am (til 3 pm) -- and I mean literally, 10:01, the cleaning lady's knocking on the door to make sure we're on our way. Alright, alright, I'm going! Relax! Nonetheless, the girls and I go grab breakfast at cafe down the street before they caught their train. Still can't believe they're doing Europe in 3 weeks...madness!

Hung out for a bit and did some trip planning in the common room--I decided to skip Ireland, going down to Amalfi Coast at the recommendation of another hostel guest--found a GREAT hostel there. This does not work out well with the ticket I already bought to fly from Ireland to England--non-refundable. I decided to cut my losses and just stay in Italy and find a cheap flight from here.
An ancient pillar that has every important battle in Roman history carved into it--bottom line: It's really old
Did a 2 pm walking tour of the Roman Forum, Palatine Hill, and the Coliseum, which was really neat. It's so crazy seeing these ancient ruins in the middle of a big city...just imagine driving your BMW past thousands of years of history--this would never happen in Canada! These free tours are great--they take you to the important sights, tell you a bit about the history, and you just tip them at the end if you enjoyed it. Our tour ended at the Coliseum so people could go inside if they wanted, but I decided against it. Funds are running dangerously low and I've heard from a lot of people that it's not THAT exciting to see inside. Maybe next trip.

Note to self: turning the flash on during the day means you will look photoshopped in front of whatever historical monument you are trying to prove you saw

What I did do was walk down to try and get registered in cooking class at this restaurant I found online, but it was full. After that mission and a half over the river and through the Circus Maximus (remember Ben Hur? That place), I met up with 2 guys I met on the walking tour, a producer from LA and a teacher from Wisconsin. They had bought the ticket for the Forum and Coliseum which was good for two days, so they gave me their ticket saying I could use it tomorrow if I wanted. Sweet! Maybe I will go in after all.

We had dinner together and swapped some great stories (note to everyone on sleeper trains: get the top bunk, or a man will continuously walk his feet onto your bunk while sleeping on the one beside you--or so I've been told). We had a lot of fun exploring Rome together!

Newer building (1911) that reminded me of the Hofburg Palace in Vienna