Mediterranean, You're Kind Of Big

Sept 16:I'm going to refrain from the joke here; it's too obvious....thatswhatshesaid. Okay! Moving on. Today was a travel day to Nice. I left at 8 am after not going to bed the night before, so sick, and had to change trains every couple of hrs so couldn't sleep at all. Got to Montpellier and had to buy new reservation for train from there to Nice, since they wouldn't do it for me in Spain. Of course, the train I need is full, so I have to wait two hours til the next (non-reserved) train departs. I met two Aussies from Darwin who were doing the same thing, so we navigated the rest of the trip together.

The last train from Marseilles was really sketchy--no light, so were just sitting in the pitch black with strangers going through tunnels. Brought back memories of my favorite travel movie, Eurotrip. Mi scusi! We finally arrive in Nice at about 10:30 pm, only for me to realize my pouch containing my sunglasses and phone is missing. Shit. Back to the train I go! I couldn't remember exactly where we were sitting since it was no reservation, so I searched. Every. Single. Compartment. Hoping the train wouldn't start moving while I was still on board. At last, I found it! Fallen between two seats. Mon Dieu!

I called the hostel which told me to take the tram to a certain stop, where their shuttle would pick me up. I finally arrived and collapsed into bed--folks, the med is a lot bigger than you may realize if traveling by train! 15 hrs is not fun, especially on zero hours of sleep.

Gaudi Crush

Me in front of Casa Batllo - about a block from the hostel
Today was my last day in Barcelona, so I got up in time for a Gaudi walking tour. We saw some amazing stuff by Gaudi--his first ever job, designing a lamppost (that has a suspiciously similarity to the Snitch in Harry Potter), Casa Batllo, Casa somethingelse (where 2 floors are still apartments that will run you a paltry 25,000 Euros a month), Palau Guell, etc.
The one with expensive apartments--I would die to get a look inside!

Gaudi's first-ever job: creator of the Snitch for JK Rowling
Turns out this was the biggest group they've ever had (62 people!) so it was a little hard to hear. Combine that with having to take the subway twice and naturally, I lost the group during a bathroom/coffee break at Starbucks. I met up with them again at la sagrada familia though, just in time for the end of the tour. Good thing it was free! A bunch of us decided to grab some food after that, so we set off in search for non-touristy tapas.
The offerings from lunch... We finally found a place with no English or photos on the sign outside, which we took as a positive. Once inside we discovered there were no menus--great! How much more authentic can you get? Turns out not speaking Spanish was a bit of a problem, because our order got lost in translation and we ended up with 5 of the worst steak frites I've ever seen in my life. Mine was actually beef jerky. Luckily, the entire debacle only cost us 7 euros each (including drinks) so we cut our losses and made plans to meet up for better tapas at dinner.
Barcelona from the top of Parc Guell!
In the afternoon, I made the trip up to Parc Guell for more Gaudi and views of the city skyline.
Me in the Parc Guell
Two things worth mentioning: A) it is a HIKE and a half to get up to the top of the hill!
B) I don't understand why 'gaudy' means cheap. If I'm correct in assuming it gets its namesake from the Spanish artist whom I've fallen in love with, there is nothing cheap about his work--today he would be one of the highest paid designers ever! Just a random musing, courtesy of yours truly (and if the two aren't related, well, you're welcome--you've just encountered your blonde moment of the day).
More Gaudi creations in the Parc

I met up with the guys from California (apparently Sacramento is now on my to-do list!) at the hostel for some drinks before dinner. Turns out there was a Tripping event at the rooftop bar that night, so it was a great chance to meet some locals and enjoy some free drinks. The atmosphere was great: sunset over the Barcelona skyline, with Casa Batllo and La Sagrada Familia both clearly visible from the roof.

I invited a fellow blogger on a whim when I noticed he was in Barcelona at the same time as me, and we had some fascinating conversations (he has seen John Mayer in his famous Borat bathing suit, and he's currently traveling the world for 9 months on $418. Impressive. He runs nerdfitness.com so check it out if you have a sec!)

We finally made our way to Tapas 24 (again for me, but it was so good, and the boys needed a lesson in proper Spanish cuisine after the debacle that was lunch!). It was a long wait but totally worth it. We had several of the same things, plus mussels, black paella (that was a new one), and a ham and cheese bikini (spanish for sandwich i guess? It was way better than it sounds).

After that we met up with some girls who are working here in Barcelona as au pairs, and we sat in the Plaza Real, talking and drinking beers that sketchy guys come up to you and sell for one euro each. seems shady but everyone does it, so I guess it's acceptable here.
The plaza

We decided to go dancing and ended up in this Jazz club that turns into 80s night after a certain time (random?). It was a lot of fun, although I really should not have stayed out til 6:30 am the night before I have a 15 hour travel day--in my defense, I didn't know it would be that long! But I had to do my last night in Barcelona justice. The sleepless night was worth the memories made...cheesy but true! Adios, Barcelona, I'll miss you!

Barcelona Day 3

September 14: I had a quiet day today, just exploring the city. I went for a 4 HR walk, stopping in a cafe for a break and to do some reading. Anyone who's interested in a new book to read, I suggest Bill Bryson's A Short History of Nearly Everything. Great non-fiction read; but there's so much information packed in that you can only read a little at a time. The perfect travel companion. Really makes you think!

That night, I went to Kirin, a sushi bar that had all the food on a conveyor belt. You just took whatever you wanted and since it was all you can eat, everything cost the same! Not great but when you haven't had sushi in months, it tasted amazing. I lost my keycard somewhere that day so I had to replace it for 2 euros. Early to bed since I could feel the sore throat getting worse. Apparently I didn't just lose my voice.

How Do You Say Food in Spanish?

The menu at Tapas 24
After we couldn't stand and stare any longer, we went for lunch at Tapas 24, a restaurant by Ferran Adria of El Bulli fame (foodies will understand the significance of this--El Bulli had a 6 year waiting list until it closed this year). It was great. We got:

-Bravas (spicy fried potatoes) & guacamole (really need to remember they don't make it with avocado in Spain):

- Tandoori lamb kebabs - Foie gras burger:

- Miso-glazed peppers...
which when we ordered them seemed like a good idea, until a row of chili peppers appeared before us and we just looked at each other like "what have we done!? How the hell are we going to eat TWELVE chili peppers!" Luckily, when I took the plunge, I was pleasantly surprised at the lack of heat. Chili peppers, they were not. Impostors. But I'm not complaining--the food was delicious.

In true spanish style, I had a little siesta then shopped a bit (but decided to wait til London to buy anything, so I don't have to carry it). In the evening, the hunt for Paella was in full force. Since Mr. Zimbabwe was leaving the next day, it was my last chance to try the traditional dish (they only make it for a minimum of two people so you can't order it on your own). It is really difficult to find good paella that isn't touristy in the part of barcelona I stayed in: traditionally, paella is brown, because of the squid ink used to cook the rice (stay with me here). But restaurants will substitute saffron instead, making it yellow. That, according to our tour guide, is not real paella. But it doesn't make sense why they would do that--isn't saffron the most expensive spice in the world?

Anyways. We walked around for a bit then went for dinner at (I forget the name, dammit! It started with a C. Not important). A compromise because the tapas sounded really good, but they also made (brown) paella. We had:

- Goat cheese and honey brioche - Something with eel--found out the hard way that it is NOT the sweet, barbecued sushi variety, but a tangle of gray, slimy, tentacles. Yum. -Tuna tataki (seared tuna)

- Foie gras (again, can you tell I really like this dish?) I also discovered cava sangria (made with champagne instead of red wine) which takes things to a whole other level.
Last but not least, chicken and pork paella!
All in all, a great meal (although it still doesn't compare to Seville--I don't think I'm ever going to find tapas that will beat it, for the quality and price combined).

La Sagrada Familia

September 13:

Woke up in time for free breakfast, then decided to check out La Sagrada Familia, Gaudi's piece de resistance. It. Is. Amazing. One of the architectural highlights of my entire trip. One of those places that you can't quite seem to capture the grandeur in photos (but I tried my best!) It's interesting because it's like Gaudi got bored with the style he was building part way through, and just switched tactics--the Nativity facade looks like the outside of the building is melting. Then you walk over to the Passion facade and are greeted by modernistic, Picasso-esque statues. It's very strange.
Nativity facade, possibly melting

Picasso would have sued for copyright infringement on this side of the church

The inside is incredible; he designed the columns to resemble a forest, and with the light from the beautiful stained glass windows streaming in, it's simply magical.
Some of the beautiful stained glass windows There's a prayer section in the middle of the church, but it's filled with tourists just taking photos (you have to sit to take pictures in that part, which coincidentally happens to be the best view of the ceiling).
Gaudi's impression of a forest

We sprung for the lift ticket and went up to the top of the Passion tower. Great views of Barcelona, although the skyline is remarkably unremarkable. At least I didn't walk into another gift shop (remember Vienna?).
View from the top of the church--or lack thereof!